By Donald Kim, Dining
Published May 2, 2008 | The Sun Sentinel
The Strip House, which has grown to nine locations across the United States and Puerto Rico, opened in Palm Beach Gardens in early 2006. The restaurant is a nice fit in the newly developed Downtown at the Gardens.
The risque decor celebrates early 20th century burlesque. Mood lighting, red velvet settees and formally dresses staff create an atmosphere of seductive pleasures.
The menu offers traditional steakhouse dishes, but the preparations and presentations are innovative.
Warm garlic bread with Gorgonzola fondue ($8) is a stack of crispy garlic breadsticks surrounded by a velvety and piquant warm Gorgonzola dip. The bread was a little oily, but it was nice and garlicky so as to be not unpleasant. The sauce was delightful.
Lobster bisque ($14) at the Strip House raises the bar on a classic. A crispy red pepper ravioli is served in a bath of intensely flavorful lobster stock; the server then pours warmed heavy cream into the bowl in front of the diner. The visually inviting swirls of cream and stock are reminiscent of the red patterned silk that abounds the decor.
Categorized as a "table share appetizer", the Foie Gras Torchon ($17) is a large plateful of decadently rich slices of buttery goose liver, bejeweled with fig halves and drizzled with a slightly sweet fig reduction. Freshly toasted slices of crusty baguette complete the dish. Torchon denotes the classic preparation of foie gras in which the liver is wrapped in a towel and gently poached, so there is no "fat cap" as on a terrene.
Steaks are center stage at the Strip House and, of course, the New York strip is the star. Offered in 16-ounce ($41) and 20-ounce ($51) cuts, it is nicely aged and flame-grilled. The steak is excellent, and to add sauce or further seasoning would be a sin.
The filet mignon was also excellent and available in 10-ounce ($35) and 14-ounce ($41) cuts. The Stilton cheese sauce is a truly remarkable complement, but should be used sparingly because the intensity could drown the delicate flavor of the filet.
The veal T-bone piqued my interest; however the Colorado lamb rack ($38) won my favor. The lamb rack is lightly crusted with Dijon and breadcrumbs and served cut into two-bone pieces. The dish is presented on a bed of white bean stew, which gives the savory meat a nicely understated backdrop.
Typically, steakhouses offer ho-hum side dishes, focusing instead on the meat. The Strip House offers some innovative side dishes - decadent and worth the reckless abandon of health consciousness. The sauteed wild mushrooms ($10), black truffle creamed spinach ($11) and crisp goose-fat potatoes ($11) were unadulterated guilt pleasures.
The coup de grace is the 24-layer chocolate cake ($16). The nicely light creme brulee ($9) has a perfectly caramelized top.